Thelma West, a 32-year-old Nigerian in the male-dominated world of diamond business.

Nigerian Thelma West is a rare gem in the
diamond world as a woman in a male-dominated
sector with few Africans, despite the continent
being the main source of the precious rocks.

The first in her family to work in diamonds, West
is used to being an outsider, having been raised
in a Jewish family in a country where Jews
number fewer than 50,000 out of a population of
around 180 million.

"I’m the only Nigerian Jewish woman in the
trade, and I don’t know of other African women
in the business," the 32-year-old told AFP at her
London-based business as she greeted
customers with a broad smile and sparkling
diamonds on her hands and wrists.

Discretion and security are essential, with the
anonymous-looking building guarded by an
encrypted intercom system and a reinforced
door, all under the gaze of a bank of security
cameras.

"I wanted to become an engineer because at
that time in Nigeria, you had to choose a solid
career, such as doctor, lawyer, engineer," she
told AFP.

But, as the saying goes, “Diamonds Are Forever”
and the sparkle of the stones, which had
captivated West since childhood, was an
irresistible allure.

"My mum had loads of jewellery," said the
daughter of a Guinness drinks company
employee mother and a property developer and
industrialist father. "We were always playing
with her jewellery box and she would always
clean her jewels, and I would help."

West headed for Antwerp, the world’s diamond
capital, aged 17 despite "not knowing anybody"
in the Belgian city. There, she enrolled at the
internationally renowned Hoge Raad Voor
Diamant school to hone her skills.

"Even though you go to school, most of your
knowledge comes from working with diamonds
day-to-day," she said.

After trying for six months in vain to secure an
internship, she was eventually taken under the
wing of an Orthodox Jew diamond dealer, who
worked with her every evening after school for a
year. She was then recruited by one of the
biggest diamond suppliers in Europe based in
Spain.

"It was being sent in at the deep end," she
recalled. "I was 19 and I was responsible for
every single diamond the company had."

Teaming up with school friends from Lagos who
had moved into investment banking, West set up
her own business in London to trade the
precious stone.

Metal tongs in hand, West explained the secrets
of some of her stock.

"Diamonds have fire," said West.

"That stone is
too flat but it’s got a lot of life in it, it was cut
about 100 years ago,” she said, pointing to one
tiny rock. "This one cost just over £100,000
($141,000, 126,000 euros), it’s got a low colour
but it has been cut perfectly so it reflects light
in such an amazing way."

Fewer than 50 clients, 12 of whom are investors,
have access to West’s knowledge.

"I can find a diamond and call them and say ‘we
have to buy this diamond, trust me’ and they
follow me," she said.

Her multinational client base — introduced by
word of mouth — includes Swiss, Russians,
Ghanaians, Nigerians and "a handful of French".

Helped by a 10-woman team, West creates all of
her company’s products, which come with a
lifetime guarantee. Her most ambitious creation
was a custom-made necklace worth around #2
million.

She plans to open a workshop in Nigeria, "where
I’ll train girls in the art of making jewellery".

West gives little away but also said she is
creating "a revolutionary tool" that will help
people in her business.

"That tool should be part of every diamond
dealer and every shop".

Source: AFP